Loafers and loafer mules: why everyone returns to the classics this season

There are trends that come and go. And then there are loafers. They never truly disappear – they simply return every few seasons in a new guise. Today, they feel more refined than ever. Less preppy, less academic, more fashion-forward.

If you had to pick one shoe silhouette that best defines the contemporary wardrobe right now, it would be the penny loafer. Whether it’s a classic closed-heel style or its open-back counterpart – the loafer mule. Both speak the same sartorial language: understated, confident, and with nothing to prove.

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01Why are loafers everywhere again?

Fashion has grown tired of excess. After several seasons where footwear grew taller, heavier, and more aggressive, everything has naturally shifted back toward cleaner lines. Runways are once again dominated by impeccable tailoring, high-quality materials, and pieces designed to remain relevant for more than just one season.

Loafers fit into this aesthetic effortlessly. They are classic enough to never go out of style, yet modern enough to feel fresh every season. Perhaps that is why they are spotted just as often on the streets of Copenhagen as in Saint Laurent collections and on women whose style looks effortless without any apparent striving.

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02Saint Laurent’s Le Loafer — the shoe everyone is copying

When discussing contemporary loafers, it is nearly impossible not to mention Saint Laurent. Designed by Anthony Vaccarello, Le Loafer has become one of those styles that quietly redefined an entire category.

It doesn't stand out because of a prominent logo. Quite the opposite. Its entire strength lies in its proportions. A slightly elongated toe. A slender sole. A low heel. Free of unnecessary embellishment. The result is a shoe that looks sharp, but never heavy.

It’s no wonder that so many brands today take their cues from this very silhouette.

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03Classic loafers or loafer mules?

It isn’t a question of which style looks better. They simply evoke a different mood.

Classic loafers feel more pulled together. They lend grounding to even the simplest outfit. Wide-leg tailored denim, a crisp white shirt, an oversized blazer — and the entire look instantly becomes sharper. These are shoes that effortlessly punctuate an outfit.

Loafer mules work quite differently. They retain the same elegant front profile, but the open back strips away any sense of formality. Consequently, they feel lighter, more effortless, and distinctly Parisian.

The difference is most apparent when comparing the same designs — in closed-heel and open-back versions:

The same logic applies to smooth leather:

Perhaps that is why loafer mules are so beloved by women whose style appears entirely effortless, even when every single detail is meticulously placed.

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04This season’s colours and textures

While a few years ago everything revolved around high-shine black leather, attention is now turning toward richer, deeper hues.

Chocolate brown has practically become the new black. It feels softer, more luxurious, and integrates more effortlessly into a neutral palette. Cream, grey, butter yellow, or olive tones pair with it almost intuitively.

Equally compelling are burgundy shades. They add character while remaining subtle enough to outlast fleeting seasonal trends.

When it comes to materials, suede is impossible to ignore this season. It gives loafers an innate softness and rich texture, making even the most understated silhouette look far more interesting. Smooth leather, of course, isn’t going anywhere, but it now tends to favour a natural, supple, and less sterile finish over high-gloss sheen.

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05How to style them without looking overly “prim”

The best outfits are almost always born from contrasts.

Pair classic loafers not with what is strictly expected of them, but with pieces that bring a sense of ease. Wide-leg denim, a short cotton skirt, an oversized shirt, or a fluid, draped coat strike the perfect balance between classic and contemporary. And if you’re leaning into a preppy mood — fine ribbed socks still look just as effortless as they did decades ago.

Loafer mules shine best with an exposed ankle. Straight-leg jeans, a silk midi skirt, tailored linen trousers, or a minimalist maxi dress provide the ideal backdrop for this silhouette. It doesn’t need to be the focal point of the outfit — its role is to subtly refine the overall proportions.

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06Which style should you choose?

If you're looking for that one dependable pair in your wardrobe to return to year after year, classic loafers still have no real competition. They work seamlessly with tailoring, denim, skirts, and knitwear, requiring nothing more than a swap of socks as the seasons change.

If a classic pair is already waiting by your door, the next natural step is the loafer mule. They bring a breezy ease to your wardrobe along with that elusive, effortless aesthetic so often captured in street-style shots from Copenhagen or Paris.

Ultimately, the best wardrobe isn’t the one filled with countless shoes. The best wardrobe is one where every pair serves a clear purpose. And loafers — both classic and open-back — have long proven to be the ones you’ll want to revisit time and time again.